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by Angelo Gaja - The current crisis, long in developing, has been a heavy blow, and it is not the fault of producers that they did not foresee in advance what even Nobel prize winning economists were unable to predict.

Consumers, faced with declining purchasing power, have also reduced their expectations and expenditures as well, preferring what it is “adequately good” to the excellent. Accordingly, the typical Italian products which have suffered the most have been those in the upper-middle price range.

Those who have benefitted the most have been firms which offer phony agricultural products, those with a semblance of being Italian but which are not of true Italian origin, gaining market share both abroad and in Italy itself.

What is to be done? There is no lack of suggestions:

- Higher quality: but for wine, olive oil, Parmesan cheese … quality has never been better.

- Better value: but by now even two euro a bottle wine is well made.

- Farmers markets: a palliative, but one which encourages cultivators to reckon with the market, to think of themselves as entrepreneurs as well, and gives consumers a better idea of the seasonal nature of agricultural production.

- Shortening the distribution chain: but first producers need to get together to organize and unify what they have to offer.

- More marketing: too many producers already boast that they do no marketing, they are mistrustful of the word itself which, for them, suggest s merely some sort of ploy to increase sales.

- No OGM: but current bans need to be overcome. It would be better if producers were more virtuous and consumers learned to recognize and reward certain products through clear and honest labelling practices.

- Increase demand for the products: in Italy the producers themselves are taking care of the question, public funds should be allocated for promotion on foreign markets.

- Make exporting an utter priority: absolutely, and of decisive importance for the growth of the agricultural sector.

- Protect Italian names and brands on foreign markets, combat imitation and falsification: more can and must be done.

If the crisis does not ease, any and all remedies will be insufficiently effective.

What remains is the chronic absence in foreign markets of supermarket chains capable of highlighting the excellence of Italian agriculture and its exceptional products. Accordingly, the opening - which has taken place as I write - of EATALY in New York, a place where Italy’s finest produce will find a showcase capable of showing its true worth, with an obvious return in terms of image and of increased consumer demand, is of great significance.

A project for the future

At the current moment, the producers who are running the greatest risk are those of artisan level, and they are the overwhelming majority of the small and individual firms in Italy. Programs to aid and assist their work are a priority. For over a year there has been a serious and impassioned debate over the meaning of the words Made in Italy, which theoretically means one thing but often concretely means the exact opposite. And contains a fundamental contradiction which is impossible to eliminate, as many firms which have transferred production abroad have greatly contributed to the success of Made in Italy in foreign markets.

For artisan producers it might be more useful to being thinking about a new concept: a new logo, legally recognized but not obligatory, which could be applied to products TOTALLY made in Italy, a logo designed by one of Italy’s greatest design talents which could be used – by individual choice – alongside Made in Italy.

A symbol of this sort would be based on the assumption, on the part of a producer, of a solemn commitment (for which he would have to take the entire responsibility, legal as well), to use solely Italian raw materials in every phase of the elaboration of the finished product. The program would be supported by a promotional campaign designed to inform consumers about the exact significance and importance of the logo. The program would also need to be supported by the professional groups in the sector and those of the stores and shops which sell Italian food and produce: it is in everyone’s interest to protect work authentically carried out in Italy.